10 buildings to visit in Reykjavik as an architect
Travelling to Iceland last week was a great experience in a country with much to offer from staggering landscapes to fascinating architecture. Therefore I decided for this post to let the hair down and share with you my top 10 buildings to visit when you arrive in Reykjavik.
I will mention from the start that seeing all those places in one day is not even worth trying and I will tell you why. There are not enough hours in a day to fully appreciate each one of those destinations if you decide to power through and finish them all at once.
My stay in Reykjavik was short, but I still managed to get a good two and a half days for sightseeing. Lunch was on the go, not even takeaway, sandwich in hand and a bottle of water. Regular breaks for resting the legs ensured I did not lose speed between sites and a good night sleep to fully recover meant I could get up at the crack of dawn to cover much ground. It was an early to bed, early to rise routine.
Without any further ado, below is my list of buildings that one must visit in Reykjavik.
Hallgrimskirkja | Hallgrímstorg 101, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland
Hallgrimskirkja is a Lutheran church (Church of Iceland) located in the centre of Reykjavik. Designed by the late Guðjón Samúelsson in 1937 its tower stands at an impressive 74.5 meters high, making it the tallest church and one of its tallest structures in Iceland. The architecture is said to have been inspired by the fascinating shapes and forms created when lava cools into basalt rock.
Construction began in 1945 and ended in 1986, with the tower completed long before the rest of the building.
'The climb to the top of the tower [...] allows you to get an idea of the scale of the city and the location of other landmarks.'
Hallgrimskirkja is one of the principal landmarks of Iceland, and for me, it represented the starting point for the tour. Due to its location and tall tower, the church offers an extended vantage point. The climb to the top of the tower (just an elevator ride) is about 7 pounds but worth the money as it allows you to get an idea of the scale of the city and the location of other landmarks. The entire city sits at your feet when you are at the top, however, make sure you remember the way once you climb down.
Harpa | Austurbakki 2, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland
Harpa is a concert hall and conference centre which opened in May 2011. The building is designed by the Danish firm Henning Larsen Architects in collaboration with Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson. Construction started in 2007 only to be halted in 2008 due to the financial crisis. Work recommenced a few month later with the full funding of the government for the rest of the delivery.
'The building is purely experiential'
With a core of dark concrete, the building has reserved for itself the best spot in the city. Situated between the old harbour and the vividly coloured town, the concert hall connects two essential parts of Reykjavik. Encapsulated in a glass box, the lava field colour interior is lit in bright and vibrant colours by the light penetrating the crystal shaped facade.
The playful contrast of light and dark tones of blue and yellow elevates the main foyer. This central space gradually reviles itself as you walk deeper in the glistering ocean of colours.
The building is purely experiential. It allows the visitor time to reflect, to stop and feel the space. Its uses stretch beyond those of a regular concert hall. It is a community centre, a visitor centre, a restaurant, a play-space, a cultural hub and a landmark. Its importance both as a building and institution cannot be minimised.
At first floor, there are a series of colourful couches which provide a great place to relax after a long day walk. The building also has free wi-fi. Therefore it is a great place to stretch the legs for a while and post on Instagram before heading out again.
Áskirkja | Austurbrún 31, Reykjavík, Iceland
Designed by architects Helga Hjálmarsson, Vilhjálms Hjálmarsson and Haraldar V. Haraldsson, Áskirkja is another one of Iceland's striking churches. Its construction started in 1971, and it was consecrated in 1983 by, at that point, Bishop of Iceland, Pétur Sigurgeirsson.
The building's interior is a combination of bespoke pieces of furniture and fixtures.
The language and materiality of the building are unique. The concrete walls are rendered over, but the texture is not flat. Similar to Hallgrimskirkja, the outer coating has an ocean like rustication, identical to what you would see on the top of a meringue pie.
Áskirkja is not in your guidebook and information about it is quite scarce. I was fortunate enough to be let into the chapel by the parish priest who was more than happy to give me some insights on the building. Therefore, ask nicely, and someone will be able to help you when there.
Supreme Court of Iceland | Lindargata 2, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland
Studio Granda won the commission for the Icelandic Supreme Court building in an open national competition in August 1993. Construction started in the autumn of 1994 and completed in September 1996. The building sits among two other architectural monuments, The Culture House and National Theatre of Iceland which close-off the structure to the south.
The eastern end of the building twists and pulls away as if attracted by the forces of neighbouring structures. This movement allows it to form a smoother transition from the solid of pre-patinated copper sheets cladding the top of the structure to the soft greenery of the garden which demarcates it to the south-west.
'One can say it aged well taking into account that it was completed more than 20 years ago'
The building sits on a rusticated hewn basalt plinth which wraps around the full length of the Court House finishing up with a full height sawed basalt clad which identifies the main entrance of the building.
The Supreme Court is surprisingly modern. One can say it aged well taking into account that it was completed more than 20 years ago. I did not go inside the building, and I do not know how far in one is allowed access.
Nordic House | Sæmundargata 11, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland
Alvar Aalto’s Nordic House in western Reykjavík has been a centre for Nordic cooperation, shared culture and friendship since its inauguration in 1968. Modest in scale, the building stands resolute among other significant structures of the University of Iceland.
The structure is a representation of the political and cultural cooperation between the Nordic countries. The Nordic Council was established in 1952 and although it held a Copenhagen headquarters since 1962 the decision was made to build an additional site in Reykjavik for a large number of cultural activities. The new site was also intended as a symbolic embodiment of the partnership.
'I just walked through like a Marco Polo, mesmerised by everything.'
Aalto, at the peak of his late career at that time, was given the project which, compared to the other work he was producing at the same time, Finlandia Concert and Congress Hall in Helsinki (1962–1971) and the Opera House in Essen (1959-1988), was a small commission, yet one which captures the master's full architecture language.
The building has a basement level with a ticketed exhibition galleries. I did not know I was supposed to pay, so I just walked through like a Marco Polo, mesmerised by everything. With no one to tell me off, I only realised when exiting. There are people around to provide some details about the building and the Council but make sure you do the reading before the visit as it will be easier to appreciate it fully.
Reykjavik City Hall | Tjarnargata 11, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland
Reykjavik City Hall is located on the northern bank of lake ‘Tjörnin’ in the historic centre of Reykjavík. The design was informed by the two dominant systems existent in this place: To the north the City Council Building, housing the political functions, is massive and orthogonal, respecting the urban scale and order of the existing city fabric. To the south, the primarily bureaucratic Office Building has a lighter structure, open to the lake and veiled in a filigree dance of shadows.
In the space between the two structures, a wall of black lava creates the conditions for the growth of moss, and new reflecting pool offers an urban habitat for aquatic fauna.
Completed in 1992 by Studio Granda, the building looks fresh. The approach to the main entrance is via an elongated pontoon. This allows visitors time to fully appreciate the magnitude of the two large concrete structures while possibly bumping into a politician.
The secondary entrance is through the green wall, and it takes you straight into the information centre at the ground floor of the riverside wing. This is a great place to charge your batteries, literally and figuratively, and prepare for the next leg of the journey.
Kjarvalsstaðir | 105, Flókagata 24, Reykjavík, Iceland
Reykjavík Art Museum – Kjarvalsstaðir is the first building in Iceland specially designed to display works of visual art.
It opened in 1973 and is named after the painter Jóhannes S. Kjarval (1885-1972), one of Iceland´s most influential artists. In his design, architect Hannes Kr. Davíðsson was influenced by Japanese and Nordic modernism, with its emphasis on raw natural materials, the quality of lightness, and simplified lines. Kjarvalsstaðir’s brightness is expressed in its support structure: slender columns carry the horizontal, copper-clad roof. This allows for freedom and flexibility in the walls since they are not load-bearing.
'The architecture here reminds me of Peter Zumthor's attitude towards spaces.'
The building's main entrance is on the main road on the north side. However, the galleries open onto the extended park to the south through an array of glass panels which ensure natural light and connectivity between the internal and external spaces.
In my opinion, one could spend at least an hour here just feeling the architecture before even thinking about the artwork.
Reykjavík Art Museum is housed in three unique buildings and displays both modern and contemporary art, paintings, sculptures and works in different media by established local and international artists.
Ásmundarsafn | Tryggvagata 7, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland
Ásmundarsafn is dedicated to the works of Ásmundur Sveinsson (1893-1982) and was formally opened in 1983. The museum is housed in a single building, which was the home and workshop of the artist.
Ásmundur was one of Iceland's sculptural pioneers, and despite not trained as an architect he worked on the designed the building between 1942-59. He proposed a white curved structure inspired by Mediterranean and Arab architecture with a prominent role in the design being played by the Egyptian pyramids. The curved building behind the house was considered for both workshop and a showroom.
After the artist's death, the building became a permanent public exhibition with regular performances and shows.
I visited the place too early in the morning to be able to see the interior which, from photos, seems to be spectacularly lit.
National Theatre of Iceland | Hverfisgata 19, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland
It was Indriði Einarsson, the economist, that first presented the ideas for a National Theatre in Iceland back in 1873. It wasn’t until 1923 that they became a reality when the government introduced an entertainment tax to build the National Theatre.
In 1925, the architect and urban planning enthusiast Guðjón Samúelsson took on the project and started working on the plans for the National Theatre. Samúelsson also played an essential role in designing the master plans for the towns of Isafjorður and Akureyri.
By 1929 the construction drawings were finished, and it then took two years to build the new theatre´s primary structure and exterior walls. Due to economic shortages and the outbreak of Second World War, the construction stopped. In 1941 the British armies occupied the unfinished building as part of a military operation to prevent the German Nazis invading Iceland.
In 1944 the theatre was returned to the Icelandic government which put a significant effort into finish construction. The National Theatre was officially inaugurated on 20 April 1950.
'[...] an additional monument to Reykjavik's eclectic mix of architecture'
The building was designed in the Art Deco style which, back in '25, was taking Europe and the US by storm. If the theatre was completed on time, it would have shown the progressive nature of Icelandic architecture and would have established Reykjavik firmly on the architectural map. However, the building's well-preserved exterior stands as a testament to the beauty and elegance of the style in which it was designed, and it adds, maybe now more than then, an additional monument to Reykjavik's eclectic mix of architecture.
Langholtskirkja | Sólheimar 13, 104 Reykjavík, Iceland
There is not too much information online about Langholtskirkja. I was fortunate enough to talk my way into the main chapel as they were about to close for the day.
Consecrated in 1984, this Lutheran church is different compared to the others visited in that the walls are not solid concrete anymore but allow the primary structure to puncture through, revealing itself and creating a rhythm on the interior.
Due to its later construction date compared to previously shown churches, the space seems lite, softer materials are used, and the stained glass strip at the base of the large pitch roof provides an additional light sour while giving a sense of flotation. The ample, unhindered space inside the main chapel as well as the two elevated glazed surfaces at both ends lift the spirit and establish a meditative state specific to religious establishments.
This is not a tourist destination. The church is in use and ceremonies are performed regularly. Therefore make sure you enter without disturbing any activities which might be going on inside. I met some helpful people there who kindly allowed me to visit and take photos. It is better to ask for permission before barging in, just in case.
Special mention
Iceland's Parliament House - if 10 is not enough for you
Kirkjutorg, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland
Lauganeskirkja - if you can't even stop at 11
Silfurteigur 2, Reykjavík, Iceland
Turninn - if you got a bit lost and stumble upon it
Höfðatorg 2, 105, Katrínartún, Reykjavík, Iceland
Reykjavik University - if you have a car and a drone
Menntavegur 1, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland
Perlan - if you are an excelent uphill power walker
Varmahlíð 1, 105 Reykjavík, Iceland
Grótta Island Lighthouse - if you have a car and time to kill
Grótta Island Lighthouse, Seltjarnarnes, Iceland
P.S. Hey everybody, thank you for reading! Going to Iceland was a spectacular experience which gave me the opportunity to visit some unique places both in Reykjavik and beyond. All along the south coast, the landscape is priceless, and it made me excited just thinking about undertaking a second journey there over a more extended period. I did not manage to see the northern lights as the cloud cover was extensive, raining for two days, but apart from that, I must say I did not miss any of the sites which I planned to visit.
I hope you enjoyed the read. See you next time.
References
'HALLGRIMSKIRKJA CHURCH' www.visitreykjavik.is/hallgrimskirkja-church, Retrived 13th October 2017
'Harpa – review' www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2011/aug/28/harpa-concert-hall-eliasson-reykjavik, Retrived 13th October 2017
'History of the church' www.askirkja.is/prestur-og-starfsfolk/umaskirkju/, Retrived 13th October 2017
'Supreme Court Iceland' www.openbuildings.com/buildings/supreme-court-iceland-profile-2339, Retrived 13th October 2017
'Icelandic architecture: tour the volcanic island in 10 buildings' www.thespaces.com/2017/01/26/icelandic-architecture-tour/, Retrived 13th October 2017
'Visiting Alvar Aalto's Nordic House' www.treehugger.com/green-architecture/visiting-alvar-aaltos-nordic-house.html, Retrived 13th October 2017
'A LITTLE-KNOWN GEM IN ICELAND BY ALVAR AALTO' www.uncubemagazine.com/blog/16446355, Retrived 13th October 2017
'National Theatre of Iceland, Iceland' www.mondoarc.com/national-theatre-of-iceland-reykjavk-iceland/, Retrived 13th October 2017
'Reykjavik City Hall' www.architravel.com/architravel/building/reykjavik-city-hall/, Retrived 13th October 2017
'Kjarvalsstaðir History' www.artmuseum.is/learn/kjarvalssta%C3%B0ir-history, Retrived 13th October 2017
'Ásmundarsafn' www.listasafnreykjavikur.is/asmundarsafn, Retrived 13th October 2017
'Worldly Monument Watch Pt 3: Icelandic echoes and where Coventry glass goes' www.worldlyscandifriend.wordpress.com/tag/icelandic-architecture/, Retrived 13th October 2017
'Churhes in Iceland' www.icelandcomplete.co.uk/Articles/Icelandic_churches/, Retrived 13th October 2017
